Tips, tricks and tech

Home

Join the Elefant mailing list

Archive of Elefant list (login supplied on joining list)

Tips, tricks and tech

Links including workshop manuals!

Gran Canyon page

Don't panic, help is at hand and you'll soon be back on the road. Here are a few pearls of Elefant maintenance and repair advice. A few modifications you might like to add to your bike too! If you think I've got something wrong let me know.

Please be aware that these issues apply mostly to Elefants of the same era as mine (E900AC). But some things will be common to older Elefants as well.

Footpeg snapping off
Fork protectors
Oil line damaging frame
Fire! Fire!
Fritzed fusebox
Screens
Instrument panel mountings
Lights and starter
Routing of fuel lines
Back spring/shock absorber
Rear suspension linkages - overhauling
Sidestand/kickstand
Swingarm guide/protector
Chain rollers
Old smokey
Air filter
Plug fouling
Carburettor jetting
Clutch clamour
Exhaust
Air compressor
Centrestand
False neutrals
Play "Count the Elefants"!!!

Footpeg snapping off: EVERYONE should check this one - highly dangerous, especially when you shift your weight and your foot hits the road at speed. Thankfully I stayed aboard. Check the condition of these bolts regularly - if necessary, replace them, or have the holes tapped out and bigger bolts installed.

Fork protectors: Used on the upside-down-fork models to stop damage to the fork sliders. They are only made of plastic and also carry the front guard/fender. Due to weight and vibration the protectors and even the guard/fender can crack and snap where they are screwed together. I made small "splints" out of galvanised steel which I formed to fit the back of the fork protector and the guard, where the guard attaches at the front (two screws). So there are four splints - one on each fork protector and one on the inside of each front mounting point of the guard. I cut the shape of the splints out with tinsnips and curved them by hand with the aid of a hammer and the shaft of an engine valve mounted in a vice! I marked and drilled holes for the screws. Finally the splints were glued in place with a high-strength long-setting epoxy (not the five-minute or 10-minute variety). I used Araldite and stuck duct tape over the top to hold the splints in place while the glue set. This can be left in place so the glue doesn't pick up dust while it is still tacky. Once re-assembled the fix is invisible.

Oil line damaging frame: This is a simple one. The braided oil line that runs down from the large single oil cooler lays across the frame cradle at the front. Vibration causes it to saw away at the crosspiece. Every Elefant I've seen has done this. Simple fix - get a short piece of fuel hose of suitable diameter; cut down the side; spread open and wrap around the line where it crosses the frame. Problem solved!

Fire! Fire!: At first I thought the funny smell was coming from a nearby McDonald's. Then smoke erupted from the cockpit! Thankfully I was close to a fuel station and got an extinguisher before major damage was done. The source was a faulty regulator/rectifier that had shorted and overheated. Cagiva and Ducati updated the reg/rec (common to the Supersport range) in their spare parts listing but do not acknowledge there was a "problem" with the old one. I'm pretty sure all Elefants have the pre-update reg/rec. The update kit code is 699.2.082.1B and it's a Shindengen part. Once it is fitted the battery charge light no longer works. My advice is at the FIRST SIGN of things not charging or working properly you should have the reg/rec checked. If the bike's under warranty make the dealer replace it.

Fritzed fusebox: The back of mine started melting from heat. Also the fuse casings heat up and deform, causing them to break contact. I have made a mounting bracket from polycarbonate and mounted two Potter and Brumfield aircraft-style manual reclose circuit breakers behind the fairing. The part number for these relays is W23-X1A1G-25 and they can be ordered through Siemens.

Screens: There are taller screens with a slightly different angle available to reduce buffetting. In Australia a screen that has shown good results is available from Eagle Screens at Unit 6/8 Royal St, Kenwick, WA 6107. Ph 08 9452 3060, Fax 9452 3061. Here's a pic. Another screen is made by Ermax and no doubt there are other makers in Europe.

Instrument panel mountings: The little "silent blocks" (pieces of rubber sandwiched between two bolts) break. Some people have repaired them with super glue, some have spring-mounted their panels, others have found similar but larger mounting devices from other Ducati models and retrofitted them. I have a long bolt that goes all the way through from the instrument panel frame into the dash (which had to be drilled out to take larger nuts). I have a rubber stopper either side of the instrument frame to isolate the dash. Plus nuts, washers etc. to hold it all in place.

Lights and starter: Seems to be a bit of interest in this one so I've set up a separate page.

Routing of fuel lines: Ross Samuelson raised concerns about fuel lines running close to the hot engine, especially the line from the right-hand side of the tank to the petcock on the left (this may only be on carburettor models). Re-route as necessary being careful not to impede siphoning when the fuel level is low. I've found the vaccuum pump is not that powerful and I'd be worried that running the lines too high (i.e. above the low fuel level of the tank) might cause an airlock.

Back spring/shock absorber: The spring on the Boge rear shock goes to jelly after heavy use, especially with panniers and/or pillion. My bike used to have a DR-650 spring with a spacer fitted by a previous owner. This firmed things up nicely enough but it's not ideal. An owner from the United States has used a spring from a late 80's Honda XR (without a spacer) but couldn't remember whether it was a 250 or 600. The ID (inside diameter) is 55mm x 55mm. The spring is cut to 215mm to increase the rate. Once modified the rate is 736 pounds. He has also had the rebound valving adjusted to cope with the new spring rate. I changed my spring to a heavier Eibach item but now I've got the better Ohlins shock from a 900ie.

A gas/oil reservoir can be attached to the Boge shock for adjustable compression damping. This is done via a banjo joint and bolt at the filling point on the top of the shock.

Rear suspension linkages - overhauling: They're all needle bearings and you need to remove the rear swingarm and shock to do the full job. The manual says you have to remove the rear frame - you don't. For the job I supported the bike by tilting it onto the sidestand using a trolley jack on the opposite side - other people have suspended the bike by roping the rear frame to a rafter in their workshop, which is a more stable option. As you dismantle everything take note of where all washers, spacers etc. come from. If you need to replace bearings see your local bearing shop as they will be able to supply new ones based on the numbers stamped on the sides. The little dust seals used on the larger bearings are an uncommon size but my shop ordered them no problems. Clean and check all the bearings, grease liberally with good waterproof grease and replace whatever needs replacing. Some of the needle bearings stay in their races but others don't, so count them as they fall out! It's a fiddly job putting them back in and then, when you push the shaft through them, if you're not ultra-careful they all get dislodged! After several frustrating attempts I found a socket of a slightly smaller diameter than the shaft; slid it into the linkage to hold the needles in place (being careful not to displace them); then pushed the shaft in from the other side, allowing it to push the socket out as it went.

Also, there's a trick to the bottom linkage where it connects into the frame, behind the bottom of the engine. Once you take out the odd-shaped rubber plugs either side and remove the bolt there is an inner shaft has to be screwed out using a very wide flat-tipped tool. This is available from Snap-On to fit on a socket wrench and is called a "draglink tool". However on some bikes the shaft is virtually impossible to remove. The diagrams in my manual are just plain wrong when it comes to this specific part of my bike ('93 model).

Sidestand/kickstand: Mine has a plate approx. 40mm x 40mm welded on the base to make it more stable on soft ground. Gary Johnson has shortened his stand by about 20mm because the bike was standing almost vertical when loaded.

Swingarm guide/protector: This runs around the nose of the swingarm behind the front sprocket. Check it regularly for wear, especially the underside if you're carrying a pillion or panniers. Not really a "problem", just something to keep an eye on. I want to make a tougher one because I find they wear out too quickly. You can get some rubber sheet or acrylic, take a pattern and make your own.

Chain rollers: I was continually destroying the top one when carrying a passenger and luggage. I've made a new set-up that lifts the chain roller about 10mm higher.

Old smokey: My back cylinder used to burn oil and the exhaust occasionally gave a puff of smoke. It turned out the oil rings that came out with my bike were faulty and wore out prematurely, giving an excessive ring gap. I'm told that other Ducatis of the era had the same problem. It was apparently fixed on later models.

Air filter: Be careful when putting the lid on the airbox that the air filter locates and seals properly. I've found the best way is to tilt the lid forward as you put it on so the little air horns tuck into their place in the frame - then lower the back of the lid, while peering in from the back to make sure the filter is sitting right. Or remove the air horns altogheter as I have - they don't do much anyway. A friend had a "reputable" workshop fit the filter incorrectly, causing his Elefant to suck dirt and destroy the top end of the motor! The filter is also common to some Moto Guzzi models and there is a good reusable performance item supplied by Unifilter. An aftermarket item is also avaiable from K&N Filters. Part number is 33-2682.

Carburettor jetting: Another hot topic for Elefant owners of the non-injected breed. You might want more power or a smoother, less snatchy ride at low RPM. Exhaust and airbox changes may also make re-jetting desirable. Check the list archive for lengthy discussions.

One source for jets is http://www.factorypro.com/. According to Dave Bigelow of the US. "These people make a jet kit that I've had good luck with and its supposed to be E900 specific."

When I first bought my bike with 27,000km on the clock it was in a pathetic state of tune. The Ducati serviceman found the mixture screws in the Mikuni carbs were seized, the main atomisers/jets were ovalised inside and the jet needles were worn. These were replaced and the bike was tuned on a CO meter - the difference was amazing! Unfortunately these parts do wear out over time and need to be replaced.

Clutch clamour: E900 models produce the familiar ack-ack-ack din of a Ducati dry clutch. Annoying, but it doesn't affect performance. To deaden the racket a spacer can be bought from Ducati and fitted between the clutch cover and the engine case. Also, a thin coat of black Silastic or similar sealant inside the cover does wonders, I'm told. I've fitted an STM clutch - not their full-house slipper model but just their special alloy basket and plates. The design spreads the load much more evenly around the basket. A web search should turn up an STM dealer in your country.

Exhaust: Many Elefants came with a bulky, heavy catalytic convertor muffler for anti-pollution purposes. Some owners might prefer to call it a "cataclysmic convertor" because the heat it generates has been known to damage body plastics. I can sing the praises of my Staintune muffler which has a beautiful finish and produces a wonderful throaty roar. Staintunes are made in Australia and available through overseas distributors. Make sure your Staintune has a recess to accommodate the brake caliper on full suspension travel. They have also made a carbon fibre twin system for the E900 but it requires plastic welding work to remove the tool compartment from the left side panel.

Air compressor: My bike has an onboard electric air compressor. I used the internals from a small cheap auto compressor and mounted them behind the right-hand side cover. I attached two metres of hose which is coiled under the seat. When needed I hook the compressor motor straight to the battery with alligator clips. Best to keep the motor running so there's a bit of charge going into the battery.

Centrestand: I don't have one but a lot of people seem to be interested in fitting one. There are several different types and people have had mixed experiences. One model is sold from Germany by a mail order company "JF motorsports". The article number is 2984-0000-0001 and it fits IE, GT and AC models. In German it is called "Hauptständer". Their home page is here. A Swiss rider told me about a stand available from Italy which he said was a "big shit" to install and touched the ground in corners.

False neutrals: At the most inconvenient times, like when downshifting as you come into a downhill corner. Be more definite with your gear changes??? Remember you are dealing with a straight-cut Ducati gearbox!

Play "Count the Elefants"!!! - How many little elephant logos have you counted on the parts of your bike? They pop up in unexpected places - inside the airbox etc. Another little secret - if you ever look at the underside of your lower triple clamp you will find a Husqvarna logo (on USD fork models at least).